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2018中國市場報告:新消費革命已啟幕(上)

文章來源:中國黃金網撰寫時間:2018-03-20作者:呂磊 任心悅 李蔓 馬佳 張圓


2018中國市場報告:新消費革命已啟幕

China Market Report 2018: New Consumption Reform Begins.

 

數據來源:《2017中國黃金珠寶消費升級研究報告》《2017中國黃金珠寶消費調查白皮書》

 

  改革開放近40年來,中國的供需結構和市場形勢發生了根本變化,多樣化、多元化、多層次的全新消費格局正在形成。隨著居民人均收入的穩步上漲以及千禧一代的迅速崛起,城鄉居民正在經歷從以往的大規模、同質化、普及型的消費,向多樣性、差異化、高品質的新消費轉型。

  In recent 40 years from Reform and Opening-up Policy, China's supply-demand structure and market situation has a fundamental change, in which a new diversified consumption pattern multi-choice and multi-level is forming. With stable growth of per capita income and a rapid emerging of "Millennial Generation", rural and urban residents are transforming the previous large-scale, homogenized and popularized consumption to a new diversified consumption with differentiation and high-quality.

  特別是2016年以來,中國黃金珠寶首飾行業正在發生結構性變革,具體表現為:通過“互聯網+”和高新技術的融合與應用,積極創新生產制造和商業運營模式,在智能制造、設計創意、私人訂制、線上線下整合營銷等方面成效顯著;品牌集中度進一步提高,分銷渠道寡頭格局正在形成;資本市場并購愈發注重優質資產、國際品牌,以及全產業鏈的戰略布局;新技術、新材料的研發不斷取得突破,3D打印首飾、3D硬金首飾、融合數字技術的可穿戴智能首飾,以及將傳統材料與新材料相結合的集成創新首飾等,創新型產品不斷涌現;注重款式設計的創意性、追求高品質、輕奢風、高頻次等新消費形態正在形成……

  Especially since 2016, China's gold and jewelry industry has been transformed structurally, featuring in following specific performances: By a fusion and application of "Internet +" and high-tech, an active innovation on production and business operation mode is executed, and a remarkable success is achieved in respects of Intelligent manufacturing, creative design, personal customization and integrated both online and offline marketing; brand concentration further improves, and an oligarch situation on distribution channels is forming; M&A in capital market focuses more on assets with high quality, international brands and the strategic layout of overall industry chain; the research and development on new technology and materials achieve continuous breakthroughs and many innovative products are constantly emerging, such as 3D printing jewelry, 3D hard-gold jewelry, wearable smart jewelry fused with digital technology as well as innovative jewelry integrated with traditional and new materials; new consumption type that focuses on creation of style design and pursues high quality, casual luxury, high frequency is forming...

  隨著中國政府供給側結構性改革等一系列新經濟政策的實施,中國經濟的增長方式正由速度型增長向質量型增長轉變。新舊動能的轉換已經顯現實質效果——近兩年,中國經濟增長的動力格局由過去的以投資、出口拉動為主正逐步地向以消費為主轉變。

  With the implementation of a series of new economic policies, such as the Supply-side Structural Reform of Chinese government, the growth pattern of China's economy is changing from speed-oriented growth to qualitative-oriented growth. The conversion of old and new impetus energies has shown real effect -- in recent two years, the impetus layout of China's economic growth has gradually given its priority from previous investment and export driving to consumption driving.

  近日,國務院總理李克強在全國人大十三屆一次會議上所做的政府工作報告指出,近五年來,中國居民收入年均增長7.4%,超過經濟增速,已形成了世界上人口最多的中等收入群體。按照世界銀行的標準,據保守測算,目前中國中等收入群體有4億多人口,約占全球中等收入群體的30%以上,并且其規模還在迅速增長中。預計至2030年,中國的中等收入群體規模在總人口中的占比將達到60%左右。據國家統計局數據顯示,2017年中國居民全年最終消費支出對國內生產總值增長的貢獻率為58.8%。

  In recent, Li Keqiang, Premier of the State Council pointed out in the Government Work Report made at the First Meeting of the Thirteenth National People's Congress that, in recent five years, China, with a resident income growth at an average annual rate of 7.4%, exceeding the economic growth, has formed a middle-income group with the world's largest population. According to the standard of the World Bank, the conservative estimation shows that currently China's middle-income group has a population of more than 400 million, accounting for about over 30% of that in the world, with a rapid growing size. It is estimated that by 2030, the population of China's middle-income group will account for about 60% of the total. As shown in National Bureau of Statistics data, in 2017, Chinese residents' final consumer expenditure annually has 58.8% contribution rate of GDP growth.

  可以肯定的是,擁有全球規模最大的中等收入群體的中國,其龐大且充滿活力的消費市場,在未來較長的一段時期仍具有很強的擴展能力,從而讓中國經濟也保持著強勁的韌性,能抵御住外部環境變化造成的沖擊。

  It is certain that China, with the world's largest middle-income group, has a huge consumption market which is full of vitality remaining a strong expansion capacity for a longer period in the future, so as to allow China's economy also to keep a strong tenacity to resist the impact of changes in the external environment.

  隨著中等收入群體的不斷壯大,中國市場的消費升級正在對包括黃金珠寶在內的各個傳統產業產生著深刻影響。從文化傳承、資本并購到人才培養、品牌塑造;從產品創新、尊重設計、鼓勵原創,到保護知識產權、復興傳統工藝和匠人文化……當前,中國的黃金珠寶行業正在各個層面褪去過去粗放式的浮躁和快錢理論,從過去單純的對于規模產出和市場占比的追求,重新回歸于對產品品質、藝術品位和品牌格調的追求。

  As the middle-income group gets larger, the consumption upgrading of China's market is producing a profound effect on all kinds of traditional industries including gold and jewelry. From cultural inheritance and capital M&A to talent cultivation and brand building; From product innovation, respecting design, encouraging originals to protecting intellectual property rights, revitalizing traditional handicraft and craftsman culture... At present, China's gold and jewelry industry is discarding its previously extensive-style theories of fickleness and quick money at all levels and returns to the pursuit of product quality, art taste and brand style from previously simple pursuit of scale output and market shares.

  基于對國家發展前景普遍的自信和樂觀預期,中國一場新的消費革命已經吹響號角。顯然,在這波消費浪潮中,愈加開放的中國市場對中外黃金珠寶產業而言,都具有足夠的吸引力。

  Based on a general confident and optimistic estimation towards our nation's future, new consumption revolution in China has sounded the horn. Obviously, in this wave of consumption, China's market has become more open, which possesses more attractions to gold and jewelry industry both at home and abroad.

  在巴塞爾國際鐘表珠寶展覽會開幕之際,我們推出面向國際黃金珠寶鉆石業者的《2018中國市場報告》英文版,旨在為國際業者洞察中國黃金珠寶消費市場的發展變化及產業發展趨勢,把握蓬勃發展的中國市場商機,增進中外企業界的溝通與合作,提供一份客觀、詳實的參考指南。

  At the opening of the Watch and Jewellery Show (Basel Watch Fair), the English version of China Market Report 2018 launched to face participants in international gold and diamond industry is designed to providing an objective and detailed reference guide for international participants to have an insight into the development and changes of China's gold and jewelry consumption market as well as the growing trend of this industry. At the same time, it also offers opportunities to enter into China's booming market and enhance the communication and cooperation between Chinese and foreign enterprises.

  作為中國黃金珠寶行業唯一的國家級權威媒體機構和專業研究智庫,中國黃金報社和北京黃金經濟發展研究中心,多年來專注于中國黃金珠寶消費市場持續、深入的數據采集和研究,并且對產業轉型升級或相關重大課題,開展專題調研并推出研究報告。我們已連續多年出版并發布中國黃金珠寶消費白皮書年度報告,已成為業界把握市場變化、進行戰略或策略調整的重要參考。

  As the one and only national-level authoritative media organization and think tank for professional research in China's gold and jewelry industry, China Gold News (Beijing Gold Economic Research Center) has been concentrating on a sustainable and deep date collection and research for China's gold and jewelry consumption market for years, as well as carried out special surveys and launched research reports regarding to transformation and upgrading of the industry or significant topics related. We have published and released annual report on China's Gold and Jewelry Consumption White Paper for years in succession, which has been an important reference for participants in this industry to grasp market change and adjust strategy or methods.

  《2018中國市場報告》的主要內容及其觀點,是對《2017中國黃金珠寶消費升級研究報告》《2017中國黃金珠寶消費調查白皮書》,以及相關研究成果(中國黃金報社、北京黃金經濟發展研究中心對上述相關著作享有版權)進行集成與重新架構、再次分析與研究的基礎上而形成的。以“消費升級”為核心目標,從產業和消費市場兩個層面展開分析研究,力求以客觀、詳實的數據,全景展現中國黃金珠寶市場近兩年來的發展變化。

  The main content and its viewpoints of China Market Report 2018 is formed on a basis of the integration, reframing, re-analysis and research of Research Report on China's Gold and Jewelry Consumption Upgrading 2017, White Papers of China's Gold and Jewelry Consumption Survey 2018 and relative research results (China Gold Press and Beijing Gold Economic Research Center are eligible for copyright of relevant works above). Taking the "consumption upgrading" as a core goal, it carries out the analysis and study on two levels of industry and consumption market, strives to reveal the development and changes of China's gold and jewelry market in recent two years in a full view with objective and detailed data.

 

上篇:深刻變革中的中國黃金珠寶產業

Part I: The Gold and Jewelry Industry under Deep Transformation

  改革開放近40年來,中國黃金珠寶市場的蓬勃發展已受到全球業界的矚目,截止2016年,終端市場的銷售額已突破5500億元人民幣,是世界上增長最迅速、規模最大的黃金珠寶消費市場之一。當前,隨著“千禧一代”的崛起,黃金珠寶市場的消費升級,將成為主導行業未來、重塑市場競爭格局的主要推手。2017年,全產業鏈各個環節發生的變化,當下看,似乎未必是具有革命性的大變革,但如果將其放在中國經濟社會大變革的背景下觀察,這些變化背后的邏輯,則關乎未來一段時期眾多企業的興衰成敗。

  For almost 40 years since the reform and opening-up policy, the flourishing development of gold and jewelry market in China has been remarkable and thus attracted wide attention in the global industry. As of 2016, the sale amount at the terminal market had reached RMB 550 billion and persuasively secured China as one of the largest gold and jewelry consumption markets with the fastest growing speed in the world. Currently, with the rising of the "Millennial Generation", the gold and jewelry market is experiencing the consumption upgrading and it will definitely become a major pushing force in leading the industry future and shaping the competitive landscape of the market. In 2017, changes occur in each link of the whole industry chain; under a restricted current view, large revolutionary transformation might not be expected to occur; however, under the context of the great transformation of China's economy and society, these changes involve a logic that is key to the wax and wane of various enterprises in a future certain period.

 

  (一)產品變革:個性化消費崛起

  (I) Product Transformation: Rising of Personalized Consumption

  據統計,中國的鉆石消費連續多年位列世界第二,玉石、珍珠、彩色寶石的消費比例也在不斷攀升。特別是剛剛過去的2017年,在珠寶行業呈現回暖趨勢的大背景下,個性化與時尚化成為珠寶市場發展的新趨勢。隨著國際原材料價格行情的變化,“千禧一代”消費者的崛起,以及他們對市場訴求的變化,國內珠寶市場品類行情、價格趨勢和風格式樣發生了很大變化。

  According to statistics, the diamond consumption in China has ranked the second in the world for many consecutive years while the sale proportions of jade, pearl and color jewel have also realized continuous rising. Especially in the just past 2017, under the general background of picking up in the jewelry industry, individuality and fashion represent new trends in the development of jewelry industry. As the prices of international raw materials vary, the "Millennial Generation" rises up and their appeal to the market changes, the quotation, price trend and styles of jewelry products in domestic market has experienced great changes.

 

  金飾:工藝提升帶動消費世界黃金協會提供的數據顯示,2017年中國內地前三季度共加工金飾47.25噸,同比增加13%,加工金條和金幣232.8噸,同比增長57%,消費需求量為 70.53 噸,同比增長23%。針對中國黃金需求量增長,世界黃金協會中國區董事總經理王立新曾表示,由于消費者鐘愛創新及差異化,中國金飾需求量增長主要集中在 18K 金、3D 硬金等。

  Gold ornaments: The improvement of processing technic drives the consumption. It is shown in the data provided by the World Gold Council that 47.25t gold ornaments have been processed in Chinese mainland within the former three quarters of 2017 (a year-on-year increase of 13%), 232.8t gold bars and gold coins have been processed (a year-on-year increase of 57%) and the relevant consumption demand is 70.53t (a year-on-year increase of 23%). With regards to the increasing gold demand in China, Wang Lixin, the Director and General Manager the Chinese zone of the World Gold Council, expressed that since consumers favor innovation and differentiation, the gold demand increase mainly lies in 18K gold and 3D hard gold, etc.

  針對高純度黃金過于柔軟,很難承載復雜設計的“短板”,一些從業者更注重新技術、新工藝的應用。以 3D 硬金為例,企業在不改變黃金純度的基礎上,生產出了立體感強、硬度高的金飾,造型精致,克數小,體積大。

  Due to the excessive softness of the gold of high purity, it is often inapplicable in complicated designs. Thus, some practitioners pay more attention on the application of new technologies and new processes. In the example of 3D hard gold, enterprises try to produce gold ornaments featuring high stereoscopic impression and hardness in exquisite styling with small grammage and large size.

  不可否認,新工藝為市場帶來了共贏。消費者對于可以展現獨特風格的新產品,更愿意買單,而從業者也得到了更高的加工費和附加值。但是不容忽視的是,在 2017 年,主打“四個九”甚至“五個九”的高純度黃金飾品,銷售也呈現明顯增長態勢,很多珠寶企業和消費者的第一關注點仍然是金含量。

  It cannot be denied that new processing techniques create win-win situation in the market. The consumers prefer to pay for the new products of unique characteristics while the practitioners gain more processing fees and additional values. However, what should not be ignored is that in 2017 the sales of gold ornaments featuring high purity of AU 9999 and even AU99999 take on an obvious increasing trend for the priority to the jewelry enterprises and consumer still lies in the au content.

  世界黃金協會調研顯示,一方面,順應城鎮消費升級大趨勢,黃金首飾銷售渠道不斷下沉。金飾行業實體店鋪在經歷了 2015 年至 2016 年度的停滯期后有所恢復,新開門店主要集中在三線、四線城市。另一方面,著眼于精通科技的“千禧一代”,是網上消費的重要推動力量,零售商不斷調整策略以吸引這一消費群體。

  According to researches of the World Gold Council, on one hand, to follow the general trend of urban and town consumption upgrading, the gold and jewelry marketing channels continue to extend towards grass-root levels. After a stagnant period from 2015 to 2016, the real stores for gold ornaments see a recovery in some degree with the new stores gathering in the third-tier and fourth-tier cities. On the other hand, aiming at the technology-proficient "Millennial Generation" as an important driving force for online consumption, retailers constantly renovate their policies to attract attention of this group of consumers.

 

  鉆飾:內地市場潛力巨大除世界最大的鉆石市場美國之外,中國內地市場成為包括蒂芙尼公司在內,多家國際鉆石飾品銷售公司高度關注的市場。

  Diamond accessories: The mainland market features a great potential. Except the largest diamond market in the world --- the USA, the Chinese mainland market also attracts a lot of attention from multiple international companies famous for the sale of diamond ornaments, including Tiffany and Co.

  此外,周大福集團最近公布的業績證實,其在內地市場已經連續四個季度出現同店銷售增長。一貫主打黃金飾品的周大福,近兩年來非常看好內地鉆飾市場前景,動作頻頻。先是在 2016 年推出自有鉆石品牌“周大福 T MARK”;而后又在2017 年 4 月以 7120 萬美元競得全球最貴60 克拉“粉紅之星”,以拉動產品銷售,振奮市場情緒;同年 5 月,周大福特別推出輕奢珠寶品牌“SOINLOVE”, 主打婚嫁鉆戒定制。

  In addition, it can be told from the performance recently released by Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Limited that it has realized a four-quarter consecutive increase in the mainland market. Chow Tai Fook has always focused its business on gold ornaments; since they expect a good prospect for the diamond in the mainland market, frequent actions have been taken correspondingly. Firstly, in 2016, it launched their own diamond brand "Chow Tai Fook T MARK"; Later, in April 2017, it won the most expensive 60-karat "Pink Star" with 7,120 USD in an auction to drive products sales and rouse the market sentiment. In May of the same year, Chow Tai Fook launched the luxury jewelry brand "SOINLOVE" featuring customization of diamond rings for wedding.

  婚嫁市場依然是 2017 年中國內地鉆飾的主要銷售動因,特別是主石在 30 分~50 分左右的鉆戒,正在成為二三線城市婚嫁鉆戒的基礎分值。

  The wedding market still functions as a major sale driving force of diamond accessories in Chinese mainland in 2017. Especially wedding diamond rings of 0.3-0.5 karat are becoming the basic types demanded in the third-tier and fourth-tier cities.

  2018 年,中國年輕消費者特別是千禧一代的鉆石消費比重將日益增加。同時,女性為自己購買鉆飾的情況也越來越普遍,這些購買群體將使作為愛情和婚慶象征的鉆石漸漸變為一種自我表達的時尚標識。因此,在鉆石首飾的設計和推廣中,更應關注此類人群的情感和審美訴求。而方形鉆、梨形鉆、心形鉆等異形鉆也將在 2018 年獲得更多關注。

  In 2018, the diamond consumption proportions of the young consumers, especially the consumers derived from the "Millennial Generation", will increase. At the same time, it is becoming more common for a woman to buy herself a diamond accessory. This group of consumer will turn the diamond originally signifying love and marriage to be a fashionable identifier used for self-expression. Therefore, the affection and aesthetic request of this group of people should be highlighted in the design and promotion of diamond jewelries. Nevertheless, cube diamond, pear-shaped diamond, heart-shaped diamond and other fancy shaped diamonds will attract more attention in 2018.

 

  彩寶飾品 Consumers of color jewels

  彩色寶石市場兩極分化越來越明顯。普通商品價格與前一年基本持平,但高品質寶石價格依然堅挺并有水漲船高之勢,特別是高品質的紅藍寶和祖母綠等 3大寶石價格堅挺。如在 2017 年 4 月蘇富比(香港)拍賣中,1 枚卡地亞制作的(1930年)1.25 克拉無燒紅寶石戒指成交價達237500 港幣。

  The polarization of color jewels grows more and more distinct. The prices for common commodities stays stable compared with last year while the high-quality jewels keep a high price level and are expected to realize corresponding rises, especially high prices of high-quality ruby, sapphire and emerald. For example, in the auction of Sotheby in April 2017, the closing cost of a 1.25 karats non-burned ruby ring made by Cartier (in 1930) reached 237,500 HKD.

  此外,新興寶石品種逐漸走熱。由于國際珠寶廠牌的助推,名貴寶石價格居高不下,而市場急需尋求購買替代品、新品種入門門檻相對較低等原因都令新興寶石品種價格走熱。最重要的還是新興寶石本身令人著迷的美麗和珍貴稀缺性。在 2017 年,巴西“帕拉伊巴”碧璽、俄羅斯“翠榴石”以及部分高級紅色尖晶石價格增速極快。

  Moreover, new emerging jewel categories are becoming in favor. Due to the propelling of international jewelry brands, the prices of precious jewels stay at a high level; moreover, the urgent need for alternatives by the market, low accession thresholds for new categories and other reasons all promoted the popularity of new jewel categories. What is the most important is the fascinating beauty and precious rareness implied in the new jewels themselves. In 2017, the prices for Brazilian "Paraiba" tourmaline, Russian "Demantoid" and part of red spinel saw a fast increase.

  另外, 由 于 近 幾 年 的 組 團 推 廣,2017 年堪稱中國“歐珀”年,歐珀成為在中國內地市場認知度和接受度較高的寶石之一。黑歐珀價格漲幅明顯,高級別歐珀國際成交價達到 3 萬元 / 克拉,但白歐珀和鐵線歐珀價格較 2016 年持平。

  In addition, the promotion by various groups in recent years allows the 2017 to be designated as China's "opal" year with opal becoming one of the most widely recognized and accepted jewels in Chinese mainland market. The price of black opal increases significantly and the closing cost for high-grade opal reaches 30,000 RMB/karat; however, the prices for opal and wire-vein opal level off with 2016.

  有數據顯示,款式時尚,銷售價格在 3000 元至 5000 元,K 金鑲嵌的碧璽、海藍寶石、水晶等彩色寶石首飾在 2017年受到時尚女性消費者的廣泛青睞。

  Some data display that K-gold inlaid tourmaline, aquamarine, crystal and other color jewelries with sale prices falling between 3,000 RMB and 5,000 RMB in fashionable designs won a wide popularity among stylish women consumers in 2017.

  而隨著國人對各種彩色寶石認知度的不斷提高,以及消費力、審美力的不斷提升和服飾搭配的多種訴求,2018 年,K 金鑲嵌彩色寶石首飾需求將繼續攀升,并將從單一產品消費向個性化、套系化擴展。

  With our fellow countrymen's consecutive advancement in the recognition of color jewels, consumptive power and aesthetic ability and the varying of their requests for apparel and accessories, the demand for K-gold inlaid color jewelries will continue to rise in 2018 and extend from singular product consumption to individual products and set & series products.

 

  玉石品類:名家精品受熱捧2017 年,各類玉石原材料價格都有所上升,特別是品級優良的和田玉、翡翠原材料及成品價格穩中有升。同時,新玉種表現搶眼,在 2017 年,玉石材料呈現多樣化,析木玉、南紅瑪瑙、阿拉善瑪瑙等多種玉石種類受玉雕大師青睞。

  Jade categories: Boutiques made by masters are highly demanded. In 2017, the prices of various jade raw materials saw increases; especially the those for raw materials and finished products of high-graded hetian jade and jadeite realized a steady rise. Meanwhile, new jade categories took on an eye-catching performance. In 2017, jade materials exhibited a variety, with Simu jade, Nanjiang red agate, Alashan red agate, etc. widely favored by jade cariving masters.

  而從黃龍玉到泰山玉,新玉種逐漸開始獲得官方的認可,相繼被列入國家標準中。在和田玉和高級翡翠愈顯稀缺的當下,新玉種的開拓,必將為玉雕創作帶來更大的空間。

  New jade categories from Huanglong jade to Taishan jade gradually have gained the recognition of authorities and are successively listed national standards. Under the increasing shortage of Hetian jade and high-graded jadeite, the development of new jade categories will necessarily bring larger space for jade carving.

  從高端文玩類玉石銷售來看,2018年,買家將更加注重藏玉的個人喜好,因此個性突出、特色鮮明的名家精品受追捧;而在首飾類產品領域,鑲嵌類玉石產品(金鑲玉)繼續成為滿足零售終端普通消費者的配飾之一。

  From the perspective of high-end jade collectables sale, buyers will pay more attention on the personal preferences in jade collection and thus, boutiques made by masters with highlighted personalities and outstanding characteristics will be popular in 2018. In the field of jewelry products, inlaid jade product (gold inlaid with jade) is still one that satisfies ordinary consumers at retail terminals.

 

  珍珠:源頭價格漲勢驚人

  Pearls: Unexpected price increases occurred at the source.

  由于近年來海水污染加劇,2017 年天然海水珍珠拍賣價格不斷攀升,即使是海水養殖珠,價格也有所上浮。2017年 3 月初香港國際珠寶展之后,珍珠價格漲勢迅猛,不僅 Akoya 珍珠價格大增,其他海水珍珠,例如大溪地珍珠、南洋珍珠等也持續上漲。而且 15 毫米以上的優質品質珍珠已很難入手。

  Due to the exacerbation of marine pollution, the auction price of seawater natural pearls saw a continuous increase in 2017; even prices for those deriving from sea farming also realized some increases. After the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show at the beginning of March 2017, peal prices increased rapidly. The price increase occurred ont only in Akoya pearl but also in other seawater peals, such as Tahitian pearl, the South Sea pearl, etc. Moreover, high quality pearls above 15mm have become hard to be bought.

  2017 年國內淡水珍珠行業經歷了最為殘酷的“寒冬”——各地淡水珍珠“禁限養令”接連下發,對上游養殖業影響巨大。根據華東國際珠寶城發布的珍珠成品價格信息指數顯示,除 2017 年 1 月、7 月、9 月略有下跌之外,其他月份都呈上漲趨勢。由于終端零售市場成品庫存量大,因此,2017 年珍珠成品零售價格未出現大幅增加。但是,相信隨著庫存的減少,2018 年以后淡水珍珠價格在終端市場將大幅度上漲。

  In 2017, the domestic fresh water pearl industry experienced the severest "winter" --- "Regulations To Prohibit and Restrict Breeding" targeted at fresh water pearls were issued successively and generated huge influences on the upstream aquaculture. The price index of finished pearl products released by CP&J City displays that the related prices took on a rising trend in all months except January, July and September of 2017. Since the retail market terminal held a large scale of inventory, no large-scale price increases occurred in the retail of finished pearl products in 2017. However, with the decreasing of inventory, the prices for fresh water pearls will increase largely at the terminal market since 2018.

 

  (二)品牌變革:瞄準新興群體和細分領域

  (II) Transformation of Brands: Newly emerged groups and subdivided areas are targeted.

  2017年,越來越多的珠寶品牌走向舞臺的中央,而要抓住國內珠寶市場“輕奢化、個性化”消費升級的趨勢,自身的“看家本領”自然必不可少。

  In 2017, more jewelry brands appeared on the center of the stage; however, to catch up the consumption upgrading trend of the domestic jewelry market as being "affordable luxury and individualized", it is necessary to possess one's own "special skills".

  2017年的珠寶市場已經進入到“最后沖刺”的階段。回顧2017年珠寶市場整體表現,人們或許不難發覺,行業整合的速度正在加劇。一邊是強勢品牌持續走高,一邊是單品類品牌向專業細分領域不斷深耕。顯然,國內珠寶品牌的“突圍賽”已經打響。

  The jewelry market in 2017 has entered into the phase for "last spurt". In a review of the overall performance of the 2017 jewelry market, it is not hard to discover by people that the industrial consolidation is speeding up. On one hand, strong brands keep rising prices; on the other hand, brands specialized for singular items move towards continuous deep ploughing in professional subdivided areas. Obliviously, the "breakout competition" among domestic jewelry brands has been started.

  面對競爭愈加激烈的環境,珠寶品牌未來的出路在哪里?是周大福、周生生這樣的超級航母能穩奪桂冠?還是百泰、緣與美、萊紳通靈一般的戰斗艦船異軍突起?抑或是魔吻、LILIBOBO、MLE超級婚戒等特色小舟能出其不意?這些都值得我們在2018年拭目以待。

  Confronted with a more and more competitive environment, what is the future way for jewelry brands? Will the industrial giants like Chow Tai Fook and Chow Sang Sang be destined to win the laurel? Or will the industrial ordinary brands like Batar, Y&M Jewelry and Leysen Tesiro rise suddenly as a new force? Or will the characteristic small brands like Mover, LILIBOBO and MLE take by surprise? All of these are remained to be witnessed in 2018.

 

品牌建設大勢所趨

The brand construction represents the general trend.

  香港的周大福、周生生、六福等及內地的中國黃金、老鳳祥、周大生等主要布局一二線城市的強勢品牌,正憑借自己的資金、渠道、資源等品牌優勢,加速提升品牌價值。 隨著珠寶產業品牌化時代的到來,珠寶品牌的產品研發、制作工藝、運營模式、服務水平、品牌文化等方面,都有質的提高,整個行業進入新的發展階段。

  Hong Kong's brands like Chow Tai Fook, Chow Sang Sang and Lukfook and mainland brands like China Gold, Lao Feng Xiang Jewelry and Chow Tai Seng are all strong brands mainly distributed in the first-tier and second-tier cities and are speeding up their brand value on the basis of their capital, channels, rescources and other brand advantages. With the advent of branding era for the jewelry industry, qualitative improvements are realized in the product R&D, craftsmanship, operation model, service level and brand culture, which allow the overall industry to step into a new phase for development.

 

向細分領域分層布局

Layered Layout towards Subdivided Areas

  2017年,越來越多的珠寶品牌走向舞臺中央,而要抓住國內珠寶市場“輕奢化、個性化”消費升級的趨勢,自身的“看家本領”自然必不可少。

  In 2017, more jewelry brands appeared on the center of the stage; however, to catch up the consumption upgrading trend of the domestic jewelry market as being "affordable luxury and individualized", it is necessary to possess one's own "special skills".

  其中,周大福和萊紳通靈在年輕化方面的轉變較為亮眼。萊紳通靈通過融合比利時王室珠寶品牌Leysen文化,打造王室IP進行產品差異化競爭。而傳統的黃金飾品品牌周大福也開始充滿年輕氣息,今年推出了粉色少女風的SOINLOVE,個性高冷風的Monologue兩個輕奢珠寶品牌。同時聘請人氣演員趙麗穎為形象代言人,注重年輕人喜愛的電商渠道。在年輕化驅動下,二者收入端增速表現優于行業整體。

  Wherein, Chow Tai Fook and Leysen Tesiro realize outstanding transformations in the aspect of rejuvenation. By integrating the culture of Belgian royal jewelry brand --- Leysen, Leysen Tesiro manages to create royal IP in the production differentiation competition. Moreover, Chow Tai Fook, a traditional brand in gold ornaments, also begin to be infused with young feelings and launched two jewelry brands at the level of affordable luxury, respectively girl pink series of SOINLOVE and individual-aloof series of Monologue. Meanwhile, popular actress Miss Zhao Liying is invited as the image spokesperson to pay attention to the e-commerce, which is popular among the young. Driven by the trend of being youthful, increasing rates of both terminals are higher than the overall data.

  此外,黃金珠寶生產制造行業的領軍企業百泰集團今年著力推廣的“囍福”品牌,正是看中了市場細分下結婚金飾的新趨勢,著力打造的百泰首飾、尚金緣、百泰國禮等品牌,也是百泰集團品牌戰略的有力實踐。

  Besides, the "Xifu" brand of Batar Group, the leader in the gold and jewelry producing industry is just aiming at the wedding gold jewelry, a newly specified market trend. This group has built up with effort several brands such as Batar Jewelry, Showking and Batar National Gift for further development, which lies the powerful practice of the group's brand strategy.

  而黃金珠寶生產制造行業內的生產制造類企業,也紛紛出擊,在品牌之路上大刀闊斧地向前邁進。不僅各家品牌產品品質又邁上了一個臺階,而且隨著消費者的關注度和認可度的提升,單品類品牌向上突破的決心也展露無遺。在珠寶首飾制造領域處于行業領先地位的緣與美更是在今年緊抓消費升級浪潮,開啟珠寶品牌時代,打造專屬的品牌印記。把“玫瑰”這一印記植入顧客大腦,從潛意識里培養人們對品牌的辨識度,打造一個擁有鮮明品牌印記的珠寶品牌。

  Manufacturing enterprises in the gold and jewelry manufacturing industry, at the same time, are sparing no efforts to popularize their brands. As a result, not only the quality of all brands has won significant improvement, but the brands also won more customers' attention and acceptance while thoroughly illustrating their decision to make breakthroughs and developments. Y&M Jewelry, the bellwether in its field has also wasted no time this year to upgrade itself by starting the jewelry brand era, shaping its own style. It shapes a jewelry brand with distinguished brand style by printing the image of "Rose" on customers' impression, making it easy to tell.

 

“年齡”不再是品牌的優勢

"Age" Is No Longer an Advantage of a Brand.

  現代品牌運作與發展的模式,早已超出原有按部就班的穩定狀態,總在顛覆、迭代、革命中前行。新生品牌可能一夜紅遍全球,而百年品牌也可能一夜倒掉。“年齡”不再是品牌的優勢。國內珠寶市場“輕奢化、個性化”消費升級的趨勢,也衍生出許多創新類珠寶品牌,以創新首飾文化品牌魔吻為代表,一系列定制、個性、情感類特色品牌紛紛在今年創立,并在傳統品牌多年籠罩的大市場下闖出一片天地。這些珠寶品牌往往蘊含了其特有的設計理念、品牌定位及文化元素,獲得消費者的認同并產生吸引力,但要想持續,就需要經過長久經營的沉淀和積累。

  Being improved from the steady style of following the old track, modern brands have formed their own development and management mode, running forward with continuous subversion, upgrading and transformation. A new brand may be in vogue overnight, while a historical brand may die out within a day. "Age" is no longer an advantage of a brand. The trend of domestic jewelry market to be "affordable luxury & personality" has also derived some creative jewelry brands represented by the creative and cultural jewelry brand -- Mover. A series of customized, characteristic and emotional brands have been established this year, occupying their share in a market used to be ruled by old brands. These brands usually have their unique design idea, brand positioning and cultural elements, aiming to gain customers' acceptance and attention, which require long-time marketing and accumulation to be sustained.

  面對新時代珠寶市場愈發激烈的競爭環境,珠寶品牌依舊要以背水一戰的姿態面向充滿更多挑戰的未來,才能在這場曠日持久的突圍賽中先拔頭籌,進而在今后迎來真正的突出重圍,創造出更多的珠寶行業的中國名牌甚至世界名牌。

  In an increasingly competitive market at a new age, jewelry brands must face the challenging future with the resolution of taking every battle as the last one to win this long lasting competition, and create more domestic and even international famous brands in the jewelry industry.

 

 

  (三)渠道變革:線上線下深度融合

  (III) Channel Transformation: Close Integration of Online and Offline Channels.

  掌握了渠道,就如同牽住了黃金珠寶行業發展的“牛鼻子”。渠道的建設及拓展,其重要性不言而喻。在一定程度上,渠道是企業制勝市場的關鍵。在產品、價格同質化的背景下,渠道建設及管理成為企業發展的著力點。

  Those who win the channels will handle the steering wheel of gold and jewelry industry. One can never be emphasized further is the importance of building and developing marketing channels. Channel, in a certain degree, is the key for a manufacturer to rule the market. Channel developing and maintaining, when the homogenization appears in products and prices, have become the companies' priority of development.

  在黃金珠寶行業中,當前的渠道新姿態就是近兩年備受關注的B2B平臺。

  The new channel in gold and jewelry industry is B2B platform, which has won much attention in recent years.

 

上游:傳統渠道生存如何?

Upstream: How to Survive for Traditional Channels?

  可以說,黃金珠寶首飾的傳統營銷渠道在很長一段時間內走的是一條由廠家、批發商、經銷商、零售商建立起來的分銷渠道。在這條渠道上,各級銷售商都能夠因為良好的市場反應而獲取一定的市場利潤,從而也在相當長的時間內因為利益分配的相對均衡而支撐著傳統分銷渠道的繁榮和暢通。伴隨著珠寶市場的發展,涌現出了眾多黃金珠寶類的互聯網電商平臺,諸如珠寶商、黃金E族、珠寶易等,大抵都是B2B平臺。同時,還有一些直播、微商、電視直銷等類型的銷售渠道不斷涌現,眾多廠家開始采用不同的手段開發和掌控新的渠道。科技改變人們的生活方式,伴隨著發生變化的是市場渠道、營銷的根本性變革。“實體經濟+互聯網”后,對實體經濟產生了極大的促進作用,同時也對產業鏈條上的一些環節帶來了“災難”。究其原因首先是整個市場陷入“冬寒期”,銷售疲軟;其二是受到業內出現的互聯網平臺的沖擊。

  It's agreed that in a long run, traditional marketing channels of gold and jewelry consist of manufacturers, wholesalers, dealers and retailers. In such a channel, sellers of every level get certain market profit because of beneficial market response, and in return, they maintain the channel to be smooth and prosperous in a long period for a relatively well-distributed profit. E-commerce platforms are emerging with the gold and jewelry market's booming such as "Jewelry Dealers", "Golden Zu" and "Jewelry Easy", most of which belong to B2B platforms. Channels such as live shows, Wechat sellers and TV shopping are keeping emerging, allowing manufacturers to develop and control new channels in various ways. With people's way of life being improved by technology, the thorough transformation is happening in market channels and marketing. "Real economy + Internet" has greatly pushed the development of the real economy, but it also introduces "disaster" to some links on the industry chain. Firstly, it's because that the whole market is suffering a "harsh winter" with low sales. Secondly, there appears an attack form internet platforms.

 

革新:B2B平臺迎來春天?

Innovation: Will B2B Be Prosperous?

  對于近兩年出現的B2B平臺而言,以迅雷不及掩耳之勢,占據市場客戶資源的速度極為驚人。這類B2B平臺,已經呈現出極強的生命力和優勢,如解決了歷史庫存高,周轉不快;傳統進貨難,成本太高;產品更新快,款式陳舊等行業固有的通病。

  B2B platforms in recent years have occupied the market and customers' resource with a surprising speed, which has shown their surprising vigor and advantages, and solved inherent problems existing in the industry, such as the historical inventory is high and the turnover remains slow; traditional stocking is costly and difficult; as well as the fast product upgrading and old fashioned styles have been a general problem in this industry.

  酒香也怕巷子深。在珠寶圈,尤其是對渠道建設方面的“巷子”而言,它往往可以被理解為人們長久堅持的一種習慣,或是傳統思維模式。這種模式,由來已久,故而很難“連根拔起。”眾所周知,在珠寶行業里,終端零售店都有固定的供應商,這是一種長期建立起來的關系。

  Even a best seller may be killed by poor marketing. In jewelry industry, a poor marketing could be taken as a long insisted habit or an old fashioned thinking mode. Such mode has been running so long that it's almost impossible to be eradicated. As it's well known in the jewelry industry, all retailers are tied to their own suppliers by a long term relationship.

  終端零售商和供應商之間不僅僅是一種貨品交易關系那么簡單,他們之間還有資金支持的關系——供貨商可以直接授信給零售商,允許合作多年且資質較好的零售商以繳納部分資金的形式,來獲得多于全額資金所需的產品,既可以賒賬,也可以拉長賬期。對比很多新生的 B2B 平臺而言,他們大抵還無法滿足終端零售商的這些剛性需求。這種傳統渠道的運作模式,使得傳統批發形式依然占據著主流。

  This relationship between sellers and buyers is not only about commodity transaction, but about fund supports -- a supplier could credit a long-term cooperator who is trusted to pay part of the cost for products worth more than the total sum. The cooperator may pay later or longer than required when permitted. In contrast, most new B2B platforms are not able to satisfy such rigid demands of their retailers. This running mode of old channel helps traditional wholesale maintain its controlling position.

  而且,就珠寶品類的采購而言,鉆石鑲嵌等珠寶的采購周期一般為三個月左右。首批采貨或者大量采購這些珠寶的時候,一般零售商都會親自去深圳水貝進行挑選。終端珠寶店老板采購一般都是靠眼睛去看,看過貨品之后,才決定是否要采購。除非是補貨,有固定的型號、款式等,終端零售商才直接在 B2B平臺上下單,進行補貨。

  Besides, jewelry purchasing period, taking diamond embedded ones as an example, is usually about 3 months. At the first purchase or a bulk buying of jewelry, retailers usually go to Shuibei Market in Shenzhen City for selecting on his own. A retailer would observe the jewelry by eyes before deciding whether to purchase or not, except there is a given style or size, when they submit their order on B2B platforms to supplement storage.

 

終端:渠道問鼎 新零售來助攻

Terminal: Channel Conquers to Be the King, Assisted by New Retailers.

  問“渠”哪得清如許,為有源頭活水來。對于黃金珠寶行業來說,以消費者為中心的渠道建設,就是這個活水的源頭。

  A channel so lively is nowhere but only when there is new resource. A new source for the gold and jewelry industry is nothing but a channel net centered with its customers.

  互聯網發展至今,消費者購物的渠道選擇空前增多,不僅可以去實體店購買,還可以在網上商城購買,甚至可以隨時隨地在智能手機、平板電腦等移動終端上購買。而且,很多消費者在完成一次購買行為的時候,往往會采用不止一個渠道。比如在網上看到一款不錯的首飾,但是不確定它到底合不合適,還要去實體店去試戴一下,然后決定在哪兒買。

  There have never been more channels for customers to choose today with the well-developed internet and they can buy in real shops, online shops or even make an order with their smart phones or pads at any time. They usually use more than one channel for one purchase. For instance, when attracted by a piece of jewelry on the internet but hesitating if it is suitable or not, one would try it on in real shops before deciding which channel they prefer.

  顯然,未來任何一個獨立被分隔開的渠道已經無法滿足消費者的需求了。由此可見,要“經營好”消費者,首要的工作就是滿足他們跨渠道的購物需求,零售企業要布局全渠道,通過全渠道的建設,打通消費者接觸點,讓消費者突破時間和空間的限制,享受便捷的購物體驗。

  Obviously, any separated channel couldn't satisfy its customers in the future. Such example proves that the top task to "properly market" one's customer is to satisfy their needs to purchase through multiple channels. That's why retailers need to maintain all channels to touch their customers and offer them convenient shopping experience, not being confined by time and space.

  線上線下結合的新零售模式已經成為一種共識。在黃金珠寶行業里,這種結合已經越來越普遍。顯而易見的是,很多知名品牌如周大福、周生生、謝瑞麟、六福、周六福、通靈等都進駐了淘寶、京東等電子商務平臺;而且,以純電商品牌起家的珂蘭、佐卡伊等,也都不約而同加大對線下的投入力度,努力通過線下的體驗,來進一步推動品牌的知名度和線上銷售的業績。

  It has been generally agreed to start a new retailing mode of both online and offline combination. Such combination in the gold and jewelry industry is becoming increasingly popular. It's no news that some famous brands, represented by Chow Tai Fook, Chow Sang Sang, TSL, Lukfook, Zhouliufu and Tesiro, have started their e-stores on e-commerce platforms such as Taobao and JD.com. Besides, Kela, Zocai and other brands only starting from e-commerce have increased investment for offline market, expecting to promote the brands and online sales by offering offline customer experience.

 

 

  (四) 營銷變革:一切以贏得年輕人為目標

  (IV) Marketing Transformation: All Is to Attract Yong Consumers.

  2017年,中國黃金珠寶行業供給側改革進入了關鍵階段,伴隨著互聯網的普及、消費升級的出現、共享經濟的興起、消費人群的年輕化,珠寶企業都開始變著法地追求鼓動性和娛樂性,火急火燎地追趕新潮流。。2017年,珠寶行業營銷模式的創新可謂層出不窮。從借助互聯網媒介、跨界合作,到重塑情感價值、挖掘年輕消費力,珠寶企業不知疲倦地探索著。

  The year 2017 witnessed the key stage of the supply-side reform of the gold and jewelry industry. As the internet becomes available everywhere, the consumption is upgrading and young consumers start to be main force, jewelry manufactures are required to make themselves entertaining, prompting and being hunger for fashion.Endless marketing modes came into stage in 2017 in jewelry industry. Manufacturers are sparing no energy to explore new channels. They use internet media or they cooperate with other industries. They reshape emotional value and explore young consumers. They never knew fatigue.

 

新媒體營銷:“指尖營銷”風暴來襲

New Media Marketing: "Fingertip Marketing" Storm's Coming.

  在“互聯網+”和大數據的浪潮下,珠寶市場迎來了新一輪“洗牌”。新媒體營銷一夜間成為珠寶行業進行市場拓展的新寵。越來越多的珠寶企業開始通過直播、微信、微博、自媒體等平臺,與消費者展開雙向互動。“指尖營銷”的風暴迅速席卷了珠寶行業。其中,周大福作為最早打造微信營銷的珠寶品牌之一,在微信公眾號的運營上已較為成熟,且推送內容豐富多樣,還通過留言與粉絲進行實時互動。直播也是珠寶行業近年來極為鐘愛的傳播方式。直播平臺的迅速躥紅以及其強大的傳播效應和推銷力,讓很多企業紛紛搭乘上了直播的列車,鉆石小鳥就是其中之一。

  A new circle of shuffling is ruling the jewelry market along with the tide of "Internet +" and big data. The new media marketing becomes the new darling of the jewelry industry to broaden market overnight. More and more jewelry manufactures start to interact with their customers with live show, Wechat, Weibo, self-media and other platforms. The storm of "Fingertip Marketing" has been fashionable rapidly in the jewelry industry. Among all brands, Chow Tai Fook, as one of the first Wechat marketing brands has won rich experience in managing its Wechat official account, who has offered various contents and done real-time interactivity with its fans. Live show is also a broadcasting channel preferred by the jewelry industry in recent years. The booming popularity of live show platform and its promoting effect attract lots of companies, among which Zbird is a representative.

  2017年,鉆石小鳥聯手小咖秀、一直播打造了“愛的表白520”活動,在5月20日當天,邀請了部分參與活動、大膽告白的情侶來到其位于上海、廣州的體驗中心參與落地活動,幫助個性張揚的“90后”一代,用大家都看得到的方式來說出自己的愛意。

  Zbird, cooperating with live platforms like Xiaokaxiu and Yizhibo, planned an activity "520 ? Speak out your love" on May 20, 2017. It invited some show attenders and love showers in Shanghai and Guangzhou to its experiencing center for activities. They helped the "90s" generation who have their own characters to express their love with everyone's witness.

 

情感營銷:越接地氣越“走心”

Emotional Marketing: The Closer We Are, the More I "Catch You". 

  2017年,各行業可謂將“跨界”演繹得淋漓盡致,珠寶企業更是其中的佼佼者之一。從聯合IP潮牌、美妝品牌等其他行業品牌,打造聯名產品,到投資、打造專屬電影、微電影、影視劇,再到邀請當紅明星、網紅代言,珠寶行業與各行業展開了各種類型的跨界合作。現今的珠寶行業,這種跨界的娛樂營銷可謂紅了半邊天,各企業借助娛樂活動,將各種娛樂因素融入產品或服務中,搶占市場份額——通靈珠寶聯合投資出品了《克拉戀人》《翡翠戀人》等多部都市偶像劇,同時邀請人氣明星唐嫣代言……這些已成為通靈珠寶娛樂營銷的標簽,也是通靈珠寶區隔于其他品牌的資產,而中國珠寶則聯手迪士尼、漫威、小黃鴨和大嘴猴等IP潮牌,把那些潮牌元素打造成一件件珠寶飾品,以滿足消費者的潮牌情結,幫助他們彰顯自我個性。

  In 2017, transboundary performances have been booming incisively and vividly in all industries, especially in the jewelry industry. Transboundary cooperation has been made in all types between the jewelry industry and all walks, such as cooperating with co-named jewelry brands and makeup brands, investing and shooting brand films, mini films, TV series, as well as inviting even film stars and internet idols as brand representatives. Such transboundary cooperation couldn't be more popular in today's jewelry industry. Companies rob their share of market by hiding entertainment factors in their products or service -- Tesiro invested in metropolis TV plays such as Carat Lover and Jade Lover and invited the popular actress Miss Tang Yan as its representative... All these have been Teriso's entertainment marketing tags, telling that it is apart from its competitors. On the other side, China National Gold Group Gold Jewelry Co., Ltd has won Disney, Marvel, B.Duck and Paul Frank's cooperation to make fashion jewelry, to satisfy customers' emotion knot to fashion brands and express themselves.

 

娛樂營銷:跨界合作多元化

Entertainment Marketing: Transboundary and Diversified Cooperation. 

  近幾年,珠寶品牌紛紛打出“情感牌”,增加與消費者之間的互動。可以說,在粉絲經濟推動下,“情感價值”的新競爭時代已正式登臺。現在,幾乎所有的品牌都在忙著“情感營銷”,各種體驗店、概念店的開設,只為與消費者更貼近。

  Jewelry brands have been marketing "emotionally", implementing more interacting activities with consumers. It's agreed that encouraged by the fan economy, a new competition of "emotional value" has ushered in its formal debut. Almost all brands have devoted to adopting "emotional marketing" with various "experiencing stores" and "ideology stores", just aiming to be closer to their consumers.

  其實,真正“走心”的情感營銷在于站在消費者的角度,深入挖掘消費者的需求,通過直擊內心的內容,引發情感共鳴互動,從而讓品牌形象潛移默化地深入人心。

  While, actually, the really "Catch you" marketing means a transpositional consideration. Were you a consumer, what's your actual demands? The brand could be buried deep in consumers' minds by impressing advertisements that could bring emotional resonance.

  像百泰囍福金飾發布的 2017 微電影《金色祝福》,通過講述父親與女兒之間因愛跨越隔閡的感人故事,把囍福結婚金飾打造成“珍藏記憶、儲蓄情感、傳承祝福”的溫暖載體,傳遞出的溫情和“和囍合福”的深層意義,以打動消費者的心;周生生則針對情人節與春節設計情感主題——“愛·回家”,因為對出門在外的情侶和夫妻來說,春節回誰家總是一個兩難的選題,家庭生活并不適合講道理,因此周生生為顧客創造了一個表達情感的機會,“因為我愛你,所以我邀請你跟我一起回家。”如此貼近人心。

  A good example is the mini film named A Gold Blessing released by Xifu, Batar in 2017. The film tells a moving story between a father and his daughter striding over the gap between them because of love. It makes the wedding gold jewelry of Xifu a warm carrier which cherishes memories, stores love and passes blessings, trying to touch consumers. While Chow Sang Sang choses "Love Is Back Home" as its emotion theme, a suitable one for Valentine's Day and Lunar New Year. It has been a dilemma for those couples and lovers living out of their hometown to decide whose parents to be visited during Lunar New Year. Considering that it's not always useful for couples to reason, Chow Sang Sang offers a chance to express their love --"Because I love you, you are the only to be invited to my home" -- which is just so touched.

 

定制營銷:個性主張 定義新潮流

Customized Marketing: Advocate Personality and Define New Trend.

  這兩年,在珠寶圈,“私人定制”也開始悄悄火爆。這種無限細分、精準定位、滿足顧客追求個性化需求、打造專屬服務的營銷模式已成為一眾品牌的主營模式之一。

  In recent years, "personal customization" has been gradually popular in the jewelry industry. The marketing mode featured by subdividing infinitely, positioning accurately, meeting personalized demands of clients and building up exclusive service has become one of the main marketing modes of many brands.

  尤其在婚嫁領域,私人訂制格外受歡迎。像是 Blove 婚戒定制中心,用心把一個個愛情故事打造成一枚枚擁有專屬符號和個性印記的婚戒,專屬定制婚戒承載著獨屬于二人的美好回憶;而 Darry Ring,因“男士一生只能定制一枚”的浪漫規定,成為無數新人的鉆戒首選。

  Particularly in marriage field, personal customization is especially welcomed. For example, the Blove Wedding Ring Customization Center sincerely infuses each love story into each wedding ring with exclusive symbol and personalized mark. An exclusive wedding ring bears the sweet memory of the couple; Darry Ring has become the first choice for innumerous new couples because of its romantic provision of "One man can only customize one ring all his life".

  另外,希望借助新鮮感、小眾感與陌生感來彰顯個性的心態,促使越來越多的消費者更愿意與原本生活圈內并不熟悉的品牌建立新的聯結,那些被認為個性獨特、看似默默無聞的新銳品牌與這種心態不謀而合。

  In addition, the mental state of presenting the personality by a feeling of freshness, minority and strangeness promotes more consumers to set up the new relationship with unfamiliar brands in their original life circle, and new brands that seem unique but unknown to the public happen to coincide with such mental state.

 

“贏得年輕人的心”乃王道

"Grasping young consumers" drives to success.

  在 2017 年,從各種讓我們眼花繚亂的新鮮營銷模式中不難發現,這一年的珠寶行業出現了一個有趣的變化,即越來越多的產品設計和主題活動,不再從消費需求出發,而是選擇從年輕人感興趣的話題入手,與年輕消費者產生共鳴。可見,對于珠寶企業來說,抓住年輕人可謂王道。

  In 2017, it is not difficult to discover among dazzling fresh marketing modes that, a funny change has happened in the jewelry industry, i.e., an increasing number of product designs and topic activities start from the interested topics of young people instead of the consumption demand to trigger the resonance with young consumers. For jewelry enterprises, visibly, attacking young peoples' attention is the top priority.

  現在,“90 后”“00 后”已經被推上歷史的主舞臺,基于年輕人玩得開、有態度、愛分享的天然屬性,越來越多的珠寶品牌把營銷和年輕一代緊密掛鉤。

  At present, "post-90s" and "post-00s" have been leading roles on the historical stage. Considering such natural attributes of playing freely, having personalized attitude and loving to share, more jewelry brands relate the marketing to the younger generation closely.

  如何更好地把握年輕一代的消費需求?首先要從讀懂年輕人的文化開始。不管是賣萌營銷、饑渴營銷,還是喪營銷、佛系營銷,珠寶企業的出發點都是跟年輕人碰撞出火花。當企業和品牌的產品和服務獲得年輕人的認可,那么一座競爭者難以攻破的品牌壁壘就已形成。

  How to master the consumption demand of the younger generation better? The first step is to understand young people's culture. Regardless of cute-acting marketing and hunger marketing, or decadent marketing and Buddhist-style marketing, the first purpose of jewelry enterprises is to generate sparks together with young people and attract them. When the product and service of enterprises and brands obtain the recognition of young people, a brand barrier difficult to break for competitors has been formed.

  可以說,珠寶行業現在正處在十字路口,新的消費主力和消費趨勢將會讓產業發生變革,未來,有的品牌可能會遭遇滑鐵盧,也有的品牌可能快速崛起,然而勝利終歸會屬于勇于面對未來變革的人。就像莎翁說的“明智的人決不坐下來為失敗而哀號,他們一定樂觀地尋找辦法來加以挽救”。

  It is agreed that the jewelry industry is at a crossroad where new consumption force and trend will bring transformation to this industry. In the future, some brands may suffer a total failure and some others may rise rapidly. However, the victory will finally belong to people who are brave to face the coming transformation. As Shakespeare said, "A wise man will not sit down and cry for the failure, they must be looking for ways to save them with optimism."

 

  (五) 資本并購:內外兼收并蓄

  (V) Capital M&A: Collect Capital from Both inside and outside.

  2017年,國內珠寶圈的收(并)購熱繼續升溫,上至行業,下至企業,資本介入帶來的巨大影響,愈發引人矚目。

  In 2017, the purchase (merger) of the jewelry industry in China is continuously attracting eyesight from the whole industry to enterprises. The involvement of capital brings great impact and attracts more attention.

  回顧2017年珠寶圈內的多起收(并)購事件,A股珠寶上市公司的身影極為活躍:剛泰集團、金一文化、愛迪爾、通靈珠寶四家上市公司扛起“產業整合者”大旗,成為2017年度資本并購潮的主要“玩家”。

  When looking back on the purchase (merger) events of the jewelry industry in 2017, we find that the A-share listed jewelry companies were extremely active; four listed companies, namely Gangtai Group, Kingee Culture, Ideal and Tesiro lifted up the flag of "industrial integrator", becoming main "players" of the capital merger and acquisition in 2017.

  2017年金一文化、通靈珠寶、剛泰集團、愛迪爾等珠寶上市公司的幾起收購,凸顯了當前國內珠寶行業產業并購的兩大方向。第一是收購國際品牌。剛泰控股收購 Buccellati,通靈珠寶收購 Leysen,都是通過跨國收購國外品牌,迅速實現品牌形 象 提 升。 像 通 靈 珠 寶 收 購 Leysen 后, 目前 Leysen1855 的產品、設計正被陸續引入通靈珠寶所有旗下店面,通靈珠寶品牌已經升級為 Leysen1855 萊紳通靈。而剛泰集團收購Buccellati,一舉獲得了百年歷史的國際高端奢侈品牌。

  Multiple purchases of listed companies including Kingee Culture, Tesiro, Gangtai Group and Ideal in 2017 highlight two major directions of domestic jewelry industry at present. The first is purchasing international brands. Gangtai Group purchased Buccellati and Tesiro purchased Leysen. Both of them improved their brand images by purchasing foreign brands. For example, after Tesiro purchases Leysen, products and design of Leysen1855 are consecutively introduced into all Tesiro stores and the Tesiro brand has been upgraded to Leysen1855 Leysen Tesiro. In the meantime, Gangtai Group purchased Buccellati, the international high-end luxury brand with over one hundred years' history.

  與國際收購平行的另一個方向,則是在行業內展開并購,通過企業間的資源整合實現渠道規模擴充。金一文化、愛迪爾均是如此。通過行業內的收購,來促進公司業務實現協同效應。在這種模式下,收購者迅速擴大了公司現有業務規模,擴展公司經營地域,這對提高公司的市場占有率及品牌競爭力有著快速的提升作用。

  The other direction in parallel with international purchase is to carry out merger and acquisition within the industry and to realize the expansion of channels and scales through the integration of resources among enterprises. Kingee Culture and Idea belong to this type. They promote the synergistic effect of their businesses through intra-industrial acquisition. Under this mode, the acquirer rapidly expands its existing businesses scale and operating region, which improves the company's market share and brand competition rapidly.

  國內珠寶市場并購如火如荼,也從側面反映出了當下珠寶市場洗牌格局的激烈程度。

  The vigorous acquisition within the domestic jewelry market also reflects the intense re-shuffling situation of the jewelry market at present.

  事實上,從數據上看,相比 2016 年,2017 年珠寶企業的收購金額、收購級別都有較大的增長,顯示了企業的整合訴求的積極一面。

  In fact, the data show that, compared with 2016, the acquisition amount and level of jewelry enterprises increased significantly in 2017, claiming the positive aspect of enterprises' integration appealing.

  事實上,隨著近兩年并不景氣的行業環境,規模較小的區域性珠寶企業,受限于發展瓶頸,已經出現了較為強烈被整合意愿,他們越來越傾向于被上市公司收購整合,通過另一種方式踏入資本市場或者實現變現。另一方面,對于上市公司來說,其獨特的資本平臺,也讓他們有能力扮演產業整合者的角色,通過主動并購,快速補足企業自身的短板,在珠寶行業的競爭中抓住主動權,同時,也由此實現自身的市值管理。

  In fact, in recent two years, the development bottleneck in the depressive industrial environment has limited some regional jewelry enterprises of smaller scales, which have expressed a strong will to be integrated. They have increasingly wished to be acquired by and integrated into listed companies and to set the foot in the capital market or realize a transformation in another manner. On the other hand, the unique capital platform of listed companies enables them to play the role of integrator in the industry. They quickly complement their own shortcomings by active merger and acquisition, seize the initiative in the competition in jewelry industry and, in the meanwhile, achieve the management of their own market value.

  從這個角度而言,可以預見的是,未來珠寶行業的收購將會更加頻繁,并且有望加速。未來的整合有望升級不過,盡管未來珠寶行業內的收購前景明朗,但收購方式則有望升級。一方面,伴隨著證監會更嚴格與密集的監管舉措,包括國內珠寶上市公司在內的資本買家們面臨著更嚴苛的收購約束,未來的收購運作必然不再那么容易。另一方面,目前,國內珠寶類 A 股上市公司數量只有 10 家。作為“稀缺資源”,這些“產業整合者”的收購策略也在調整。

  From this perspective, it can be predicted that the acquisition of jewelry industry will become more frequent and more rapid in the future. The future integration may be upgraded. Although the prospect of acquisition in the jewelry industry is bright, the acquisition manner is expected to be upgraded. On the one hand, as increasing strict and intensive supervision measures are taken by China Securities Regulatory Commission, all capital buyers, including domestic listed companies, are facing more rigorous restrictions on acquisition and the future acquisition will no longer be so easy. On the other hand, there are only 10 A-share listed jewelry companies in China now. As "rare resources", these "industrial integrators" are also adjusting their acquisition strategies.

  不管如何,中國黃金珠寶市場目前仍然是一個集中度較低的市場,整合空間巨大。在資本的撬動下,行業洗牌與整合的大勢將不可避免。

  Anyway, Chinese gold and jewelry market remains a low-concentration market at present and has a large space for integration. Levered by capital, the shuffling and integration trends of the industry are unavoidable.

 

特別說明

  為滿足國際業者的需求,中國黃金報社、北京黃金經濟發展研究中心出版的《2017中國黃金珠寶消費升級研究報告》、《2017中國黃金珠寶消費調查白皮書》等系列研究報告,將推出英文版定制服務,并提供有關中國市場的顧問咨詢、專題調研報告委托研究等第三方服務。

  To satisfy the needs of international participants, custom service to provide English versions of Research Report on China's Gold and Jewelry Consumption Upgrading 2017, White Papers of China's Gold and Jewelry Consumption Survey 2017 and other research reports in this series published by the China Gold Press and Beijing Gold Economic Research Center will be launched; and third-party services like consultation on relevant Chinese market conditions and commissioned research in special field will also be offered.

 

  詳情請聯系:

  劉瑞梅 liuruimei1969@163.com 13811396281

  Name: Liuruimei email: liuruimei1969@163.com Phone No. 0086 -13811396281

 

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